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Spontaneous Exploration

Discover beauty, rich history and opportunities for outdoor fun in the Lewis Clark Valley

By Heather Larson

Photo Courtesy of Brad Stinson
“Let’s take a few days to explore this part of Idaho instead of going straight home,” I said. Bob and I had just gotten our youngest settled in his room at Lewis and Clark State College in Lewiston. North Central Idaho was even more picturesque than I’d imagined, and I wanted to see more. “Why not?” Bob replied. “We don’t have to be home right away, and I could go for some of that exceptional Idaho hospitality.” He offered to arrange things with the dog sitter while I plotted our course.
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Following Lewis and Clark’s footsteps

Photo Courtesy of Brad Stinson
And so, our spontaneous trip began. I chose the Northwest Scenic Passage Byway, or State Route 12, as our starting point. This two-lane winding road follows the journey of Lewis and Clark through Idaho. Imagining how those two iconic explorers knew what to call different areas, what to include on their maps and how to describe what they saw boggles the mind. In some places, the area is so remote, it must still be very similar to what Lewis and Clark saw. This highway parallels the Clearwater River, sometimes with peak-a-boo views and other times with full-on rushing water beauty. At our first stop, the Dworshak Dam Visitors Center, we inspected all three floors of their power operations. While Bob snapped photos of hydropower turbines, I learned that Oro Fino (original spelling of the town name, Orofino) means “fine gold” and developed into a settlement during the Gold Rush of 1860. Before leaving Orofino, we stopped at Augie’s Deli. We were mostly there for the handcrafted huckleberry ice cream cones, but we also picked up sandwiches for a picnic later. A fellow ice cream enthusiast heard us asking about hiking and suggested we try the Canyon Creek Trail. True to the spontaneous nature of our trip, we followed his advice and trekked to the border of the Dworshak Reservoir, a 53-mile-long lake created by the dam of the same name. We walked a moss-covered path flanked with ferns. A downed tree we encountered made the perfect spot for our picnic lunch.
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Art, history and a local gem

Photo Courtesy of Brad Stinson
To walk off some calories, we strolled through Kamiah’s Main Street, challenging each other to see who could find the most public art pieces. The sheer number of paintings, sculptures and architecture we located indicated how rich the area was in history. A natural progression led us to the “Heart of the Monster” in the Nez Perce National Historic Park. Through interpretive signs and an audio program we discovered this rock formation represents the legendary birthplace of the Nez Perce tribe. After a walk along the nature trail at Riverfront Park, we decided to call it a day. In the car, I rifled through the glove box and unearthed a travel guide for Idaho.
“Did you know the Nez Perce National Historic Park covers hundreds of miles in Idaho, Montana, Oregon and Washington?” I asked Bob.
He didn’t, but we both hoped we’d run into some of the other sites down the road. The sun was low in the sky, so we decided it was time to find a place to stay the night. River Dance Lodge was perfect for our needs. After settling in, we headed over to their Syringa Café for a much-needed meal. We paired our entrees with a bottle of Idaho wine, Colter’s Creek Pinot Noir Rosé. But I don’t think that was why we saw the moose swimming across the river outside our window. Our server said we might also catch glimpses of deer, elk, turkey and mountain goats during our stay. When we heard about all the activities offered at the lodge—horseback riding, river rafting, mountain biking—we booked a second night, so we could explore this scenic backcountry a bit more. In between burning calories hiking, biking and boating, we took a side trip to the Historic Museum at St. Gertrude in Cottonwood, Idaho. There we marveled at the Nez Perce artifacts on display including a beaded cradleboard and a few pairs of moccasins. But the old-time medical instruments, especially the tonsillectomy chair, made us appreciate modern medicine so much more.
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Time to fuel up

Photo Courtesy of Brad Stinson
We were excited to get back to Lewiston, but first we wanted to check out the small town of Kooskia where the Clearwater River’s main forks flow together. Turns out it was a good place to fly fish. Our trusty guidebook indicated the people on the banks of the river might be fishing for steelhead, cutthroat, Chinook salmon or bass. As Bob predicted, we found another site in the Nez Perce National Historic Park where the Looking Glass’ 1877 Camp had been. Now it’s the Kooskia National Fish Hatchery where adult salmon are helped along with their spawning. Because Kooskia is the gateway to some of the most isolated country in the continental U.S., we decided to fill up the tank and get some provisions for ourselves. We drove east but decided to forego the drive through Lolo Pass. The pass traverses the Bitterroot Mountain Range of the Northern Rockies and we weren’t sure how long it might take. Instead, we agreed to explore it another time on our motorcycles. The American Motorcycle Association has deemed Highway 12 in Idaho one of the 15 best motorcycle roads, so what biker could resist that journey? I didn’t want to miss the Hells Canyon jet boat tour we’d booked as it had been on my bucket list for years.
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Return to lewiston

Photo Courtesy of Brad Stinson
A jet boat offers the most down-to-earth view of Hells Canyon from atop the Snake River. Carved deep into the Earth’s crust, this canyon came into existence six million years ago. At 7,900 feet, it’s deeper than the Grand Canyon. Our pilot narrated the voyage, providing insights into the area’s history, flora and wildlife. Thankfully, he also navigated the rapids with ease, though some splashes here and there were inevitable. Good thing the sun was out to dry us off. The majesty of Seven Devils Mountains, the stops at historic sites like Kirkwood Historic Ranch and Museum and just being on the water made this the highlight of our trip. After the tour, we checked into the Lewiston Red Lion Hotel. Our premium king room came complete with luxury, eco-friendly amenities and access to a gorgeous pool and fantastic river views. We’d done quite a bit of driving over the last few days, so it felt great to unwind and soak in the resort-style hot tub.  Before heading out to dinner, we talked to the concierge about renting bikes the next morning. We wanted to take advantage of the on-site bike rental so that we could get some activity in before the drive home. That evening we toasted our impromptu adventure with some tasty Chardonnay from Idaho’s Lindsay Creek Vineyards while savoring huckleberry-glazed salmon and saffron shrimp at Jollymore’s. The local flavors of the wine, huckleberry and salmon were the perfect cap to our Lewis Clark Valley tour. “We should do this,” “…more often,” Bob finished my sentence. Luckily parents weekend was only a couple of months away, so we’d have reason to find ourselves in Lewiston again soon.
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Take a trip to Idaho's Lewis Clark Valley